We woke up to gorgeous weather in Malibu and jumped on the scoots headed for the beach and the surf. We stopped in at Malibu Surf Shack and rented 2 boards and wetsuits and hit the beach. There was just one problem: my wetsuit was made for Pamela Anderson and I was not filling in all the right places if ya know what I mean. But no worries, we will push on. Oh, but there is just one more problem: I have never surfed before, EVER! And well, for the first time being on Malibu beach and being with Ryan, someone that has only surfed a few times on Cocoa Beach with baby waves, was not really giving me the confidence I needed to tackle this feat. But I am here, in Malibu, on this trip and I have to try, atleast to just say that I did. So, Ryan led the way to the water, I followed apprehensively. The water hit me and it was freezing, but I do have to say that wetsuits really do keep ya warm, so I was fine. First obstacle: cold water, accomplished.
Next, get through the breaking waves. Ryan and I hopped on our boards and started paddling and paddling and I am certain that that Bob's Big Boy combo did not help my paddling at all but hinder it more really. So, Ryan was ahead and there was this hug wave headed towards us as we paddle and it was going to break right on us. Ryan yelled go under it. I thought to myself, "Are you Crazy? That thing is going to swallow me." But I trust Ryan and I did exactly what he said and under it. Only to find myself slammed off the board into a whirling abyss of white salt water rushing into my face and mouth and I am caught in a rip current being rolled and smacked and I don't know which way was up. I couldn't breathe and did what you are never supposed to do: Panic! I thought to myself this is it: Lacey and Ryan's Excellent Adventure is over and I went out on a wave in Malibu. Definitely a cool headline story but not the way I wanted to go out. The water subsided and I jumped up out of the water, gasping for air and my hair is knotted dreadlocks covering my face. I reached for my board and Ryan was like, "Are you okay? I had a feeling that was going to happen." "WHAT!?!!!" I replied, "That's it, I'm outta here, surfing is done." He was like, "No, no, no, come on, Lace. You can do it!" And with Ryan's sweet encouragement, I got back on the board and headed back to shore. haha...Nah, I paddled out more into the ocean, only to keep getting swept closer and closer to the pier. This ocean and me really weren't getting along. Ryan led the way and stayed out longer but I, in every sense of the word, pussed out and started heading back to shore. I rode a couple waves back to shore, body boarding that is. And that was enough of a thrill for me. I attempted to drag my huge, heavy board up to wear our things were, but I was so exhausted from paddling and lifting and trying to stay alive, I dropped the board where it was and went and brought my things to the board. Much easier! Ripped off my Baywatch inspired wetsuit and soaked up some rays. Aaahh, now i can relax!
Meanwhile, Ryan was out in the ocean getting demolished by the waves and struggling to paddle as his arms became jello. He came over and checked on me to take a break but was determined to get out there. I have to say, I was really impressed with his tenacity, but we were both in over our heads with those waves. Literally!
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